Terrain

Model mountains, valleys, hills, waterways and any other type of earth contour in any geographic area with spectacular results. Each Terrain System product includes easy-to-follow, illustrated instructions. Read an excerpt on Terrain from The Complete Guide to Model Scenery to learn more.

Understructure & Formation

A complete system of products that work together to build lightweight understructure that models mountains, valleys, waterways, caves and any other land surface feature.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Would it be possible to order six or eight 3.5 inch foam risers?
  
  We do not make 3.5 inch risers. To accomplish this, install our 2 ", 1 " and 1/2 " risers on top of one another to create that height. Each package contains 4 each and each piece is 2.5 " wide x 24 " long. The quantities to purchase will depend on the planned length of your track.
- Will hills made with the ReadyGrass Mat be strong enough to support lead miniature wargaming figures? Lots of them, and for long periods of time?
  
  For this application, we suggest using Shaper Sheet and Shaper Sheet Plaster. Shaper Sheet is a revolutionary material that can be shaped and reshaped to form terrain with any level of detail. When covered in Shaper Sheet Plaster, it becomes a very durable surface that will support heavy game play.
  
  Cover Shaper Sheet Plaster in landscape materials to model a realistic gaming terrain.
- Shaper Sheet is great but too time consuming to peel and stick together, is there a glue I can use in place of the peel and stick method?
  
  Low Temp Foam Glue can be used, but it may pull away from the foil when forming it into terrain shapes.
  
  Another method is to form the sheets individually, aligning them side-by-side. Fold the connecting edges over approximately 1” so the fiber mesh edges face each other. Connect the sheets together with Shaper Sheet Plaster.
- Is Shaper Sheet plaster required for a hard shell or will Hydrocal or others work as well?
  
  Any of our plaster-based products can be used on Shaper Sheet to create a hard shell, but deliver varying degrees of hardness. Reference the plaster chart on our website for details.
  Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster
  Carving Plaster
  Super Strength Plaster
  Mold-A-Scene Plaster
  
  We recommend using Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) because it has an extended working time and the hardness factor. The extended time allows the modeler more time to apply plaster. Typical plaster products have about 5 minutes of working time, while Shaper Sheet Plaster has approximately 20 minutes.
- Can you tell me the meaning of the 2" and 4" measurements on your Support Panels?
  
  The 2" and 4" measurements are the width of the individual, folded panels.
- Can I sand shaper sheet plaster?
  
  When dry, Shaper Sheet Plaster is sandable.
- Should I use warm or cold water to dip the Plaster Cloth in?
  
  We recommend using cold water with Plaster Cloth. Using warm water will cause the plaster to set up quickly, which will shorten the working time.
- I am using Plaster Cloth to create my terrain. When dry, the cloth fibers are visible and some holes are evident. What is the best way to smooth it out?
  
  Filling all holes is only a necessity when you are applying water products, otherwise landscape materials will cover the holes.
  
  Drag the Plaster Cloth through cold water. Do not let it soak in the water or it will lose a lot of the plaster. Make sure that you apply the Plaster Cloth 'bumpy' side up, and then use wet fingers to spread the plaster over the cloth while it's wet. That usually takes care of rough areas and holes. Work efficiently because plaster sets quickly.
  
  Apply a double layer of Plaster Cloth by overlapping each previous layer by 50%. If it needs even further smoothing you can add a thin, smooth layer over problem areas with our Shaper Sheet Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, or Lightweight Hydrocal®.*
  
  *Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
  
  Click here to view a short video about Plaster Cloth.
Plasters

There is a plaster for any application - a plaster- infused, easy-to-apply cloth; plaster soft enough to carve; textured plaster; super-strong plaster; and another to allow for extended working time.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Once opened, how long will the plaster products keep? What is the best way to store it?
  
  When stored properly, plaster products have a very long (years) shelf life as long as they are stored in a way that keeps moisture away from the product. Put any of our plasters (Hydrocal, Shaper Sheet Plaster, Carving Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, or Mold-A-Scene) in a sealed plastic bag. Place the sealed bag in a tightly sealed, non-breakable container. This double seal will prevent moisture from interacting with the plaster.
- What is recommended to use as a base sealer prior to pouring the Realistic Water?
  
  We recommend sealing a water feature base with Plaster Cloth. Apply as instructed on the label, ensuring all holes in the Cloth are filled in before pouring Realistic Water.
  
  Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
- Is the Shaper Sheet strong enough to run a few levels of O scale train over it or would this require additional support?
  
  Shaper Sheet is a terrain modeling material. It is not intended to be used as a level surface for running trains. To elevate track and create smooth elevation transitions, we recommend using Risers and Inclines/Declines as a track foundation. Cover Risers and Inclines/Declines with Plaster Cloth, and then form terrain contours with Shaper Sheet and attach it up against the edge of the Risers and Inclines/Declines.
- Shaper Sheet is great but too time consuming to peel and stick together, is there a glue I can use in place of the peel and stick method?
  
  Low Temp Foam Glue can be used, but it may pull away from the foil when forming it into terrain shapes.
  
  Another method is to form the sheets individually, aligning them side-by-side. Fold the connecting edges over approximately 1” so the fiber mesh edges face each other. Connect the sheets together with Shaper Sheet Plaster.
- Can I use Shaper Sheet Plaster in your rock molds?
  
  Yes. Shaper Sheet Plaster provides excellent detail when used as a casting plaster.
- Is Shaper Sheet plaster required for a hard shell or will Hydrocal or others work as well?
  
  Any of our plaster-based products can be used on Shaper Sheet to create a hard shell, but deliver varying degrees of hardness. Reference the plaster chart on our website for details.
  Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster
  Carving Plaster
  Super Strength Plaster
  Mold-A-Scene Plaster
  
  We recommend using Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) because it has an extended working time and the hardness factor. The extended time allows the modeler more time to apply plaster. Typical plaster products have about 5 minutes of working time, while Shaper Sheet Plaster has approximately 20 minutes.
- Can I sand shaper sheet plaster?
  
  When dry, Shaper Sheet Plaster is sandable.
- Can Realistic Water be used on Mold-A-Scene?
  
  Yes, Realistic Water can be used over Mold-A-Scene, but you should seal the area according to the Realistic Water instructions.
- What is the mix ratio of Lightweight Hydrocal?
  
  The mix ratio of Lightweight Hydrocal is 5 parts Hydrocal to 2 parts water (1 1/4 cups Hydrocal to 1/2 cup water).
- My Lightweight Hydrocal is still wet after 40 minutes. The instructions say that it should be dry by now. What am I doing wrong?
  
  Different issues can affect the setting and drying time of Lightweight Hydrocal®.
  
  The amount of water used is critical. Use only the amount indicated in the instructions or the Hydrocal will take much longer to cure and set. If too much water is used, it may never set up completely.
  
  It is very important to shake the carton of Lightweight Hydrocal upside down for 30 seconds to mix contents thoroughly before measuring.
  
  Humidity is another factor. Higher humidity can extend dry time to as long as a few days. Placing a fan in the room to circulate air can speed up drying time.
  
  Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
- Approximately how many rocks from a Rock Mold will 1/2 gallon of Hydrocal make?
  
  A 1/2 gallon carton of Lightweight Hydrocal® will yield approximately 14 medium-sized rocks.
  
  The actual number of rock castings will depend on which Rock Mold is used and how full it is filled. For example, Rock Mold Strata or Classic and a 1/2 gallon of Lightweight Hydrocal will yield 8-10 full-pour rocks.
  
  Hydrocal® is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
- Will Lightweight Hydrocal clog a water drain?
  
  You should not wash any Woodland Scenics plaster product down the drain. This includes Shaper Sheet Plaster, Carving Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster, Mold-A-Scene Plaster, and Smooth-It.
  
  Plaster residue that remains after applying Plaster Cloth should also be discarded in the trash.
- I purchased the Bulk Lightweight Hydrocal which is 5 gallons. The instructions state to mix the contents well before use. Any suggestion how to do this with a 5 gallon bag?
  
  We suggest transferring the entire contents to a heavy-duty plastic trash bag. Ingredients can settle, so it's important to tumble in all directions to mix contents evenly.
- My Lightweight Hydrocal will not take the Liquid Pigments in some areas of my terrain?
  
  Some natural shading should occur when painting your Lightweight Hydrocal surface with Liquid Pigments. However, if the surface is not absorbing pigment and remains white, those areas probably have been contaminated with glue or another substance.
- What are the metric mixing measurements for your Lightweight Hydrocal?
  
  Mix 295 mL of Lightweight Hydrocal with 118 mL of water.
- Can a Lightweight Hydrocal base be colored with acrylic paint?
  
  We recommend using our Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment on Lightweight Hydrocal®* castings. You will want to be sure that there is no glue or other residue on the casting before applying the Pigments, because color may not adhere or may become blotchy.
  
  *Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
- What is the dry quantity of lightweight hydrocal needed to cast one rock in a rock mold?
  
  Rock castings can be made from the following Woodland Scenics plaster products: Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster (C1201), Super Strength Plaster (C1199), Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180), and Carving Plaster (C1198).
  
  Fill the Rock Mold with water, and then pour the water into a measuring cup. Measure the amount of water and divide by two. This is the amount of water you will add to the Plaster. Times the water amount by 2.5 to find the amount of Plaster you will need.
  
  Example: Rock Mold holds 4 fluid ounces of water.
  4 fluid ounces divided by 2 = 2 fluid ounces.
  2 fluid ounces times 2.5 = 5 fluid ounces.
  Add 5 fluid ounces of Plaster to 2 fluid ounces of water. Prepare Plaster per instructions on carton.
- Is the "dip" method the only way to apply Plaster Cloth?
  
  Another way you can apply Plaster Cloth is to lay managable sizes of dry Plaster Cloth strips on the project. Use a spray bottle to mist with water and use your fingers to smooth out the plaster filling in all the holes.
- Is there any specific type of paint you recommend to paint the plaster cloth after it has been applied to the layout?
  
  We recommend using Earth Colors Liquid Pigment, Earth Undercoat or Green Undercoat. They yield realistic results and are formulated to blend naturally with our Turf products.
  
  Click here to view how to paint Plaster Cloth surface with Earth Colors.
- Should I use warm or cold water to dip the Plaster Cloth in?
  
  We recommend using cold water with Plaster Cloth. Using warm water will cause the plaster to set up quickly, which will shorten the working time.
- I am using Plaster Cloth to create my terrain. When dry, the cloth fibers are visible and some holes are evident. What is the best way to smooth it out?
  
  Filling all holes is only a necessity when you are applying water products, otherwise landscape materials will cover the holes.
  
  Drag the Plaster Cloth through cold water. Do not let it soak in the water or it will lose a lot of the plaster. Make sure that you apply the Plaster Cloth 'bumpy' side up, and then use wet fingers to spread the plaster over the cloth while it's wet. That usually takes care of rough areas and holes. Work efficiently because plaster sets quickly.
  
  Apply a double layer of Plaster Cloth by overlapping each previous layer by 50%. If it needs even further smoothing you can add a thin, smooth layer over problem areas with our Shaper Sheet Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, or Lightweight Hydrocal®.*
  
  *Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
  
  Click here to view a short video about Plaster Cloth.
- Is Scenic Cement used to seal Hydrocal rock castings after painting?
  
  Yes. Rock castings colored with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments should be sprayed with Scenic Cement. This will seal the pigments onto the castings and reduce fading overtime.
  
  Click here to view how to seal rock castings.
Rock Molds, Ready Rocks^™, Custom & Debris

Model any rock from anywhere. Cast or carve your own; install ready-to-go; hand-painted rocks; and pile debris under rock faces and along road cuts.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Is The Tunnel Liner Form reusable?
  
  The Tunnel Liner Form is reuseable. If it is well cared for, it can be used to make several castings. Be sure to clean it thoroughly before and after each use.
- I purchased all of your Earth Colors pigments. Would you please suggest the pigments that would be good for basic rock coloring?
  
  We typically suggest Yellow Ocher, Burnt Umber and Black for generic rock coloring, however different geographic locations have rocks of different color so choose the pigments that best represent the area you are modeling.
  
  The Leopard Spot technique is our favorite method for coloring rocks. It is a simple technique that yields realistic results. Start with the suggested dilution ratios. If darker colors are desired, add additional pigment to washes.
  
  -Dilute 2 different secondary colors, 1-part pigment to 16-parts water. Color suggestions: Yellow Ocher and Burnt Umber.
  
  -Dilute a third pigment for a dominate color, 1-part pigment to 32-parts water. Color suggestion: Black.
  
  Start with the lightest secondary rock color. Using a foam brush, dab first color randomly over 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Dab the next secondary color randomly over a different 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Leave approximately 1/3 of the rock white.
  
  Brush and dab the dominate Black Wash over the entire rock face. The Black Wash pulls the colors together. When dry, seal rock colors with Scenic Cement (S191) and let dry. Then, brush on a less diluted Black Wash (1:16) to accentuate rock detail. Spray again with Scenic Cement to seal.
  
  Click here to view a video on coloring rocks.
- What is the best way to clean rock molds after use?
  
  An old toothbrush, warm soapy water and a bit of light scrubbing will take dried hydrocal right off.
- There is too much black wash on my rocks, can I lighten or remove the black wash and rock coloring?
  
  Yes, the black wash can be lightened, as long as it has not been sealed already with Scenic Cement. Flood-spray the casting with hot salt water (1 tsp in 6 fluid oz of hot water). Wait one minute, and spray again if needed. Dab with paper towels to remove the liquid. The base colors will remain on the rock, but the coloring will be much lighter.
  
  If you would like to start over completely, paint the casting with White Earth Colors Liquid Pigment. Dilute the White Pigment 1:1 with water.
  
  When satisfied with the coloring on your casting, spray with Scenic Cement to seal the colors and let dry.
  
  Click here to learn how to lighten rock castings when the wash is too dark.
- What are Woodland Scenics Rock Molds made out of?
  
  Rock Molds are made of a non-latex polymer.
- Can I use Shaper Sheet Plaster in your rock molds?
  
  Yes. Shaper Sheet Plaster provides excellent detail when used as a casting plaster.
- What pigment colors can I use so my rocks achieve the Sandstone look?
  
  Color recommendation: Use Burnt Umber and Yellow Ocher as secondary colors. Then, use Raw Umber as the dominant color.
  
  You may want to consider purchasing the Earth Colors Kit. It includes all eight Earth Colors Liquid Pigments and detailed instructions for coloring rocks. This would allow you to experiment with different colors to achieve your desired look.
- I have just started making my own rock molds. The Latex Rubber product says to apply each coat and let dry before the next one. What is an average drying time (it's hot and dry here)?
  
  Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers. Dry time is approximately 30 minutes, but can vary due to environmental conditions. When first applied, it is opaque and off-white in color. Latex Rubber is dry when it has turned pale yellow and is slightly translucent.
  
  For durable, long-lasting molds, apply at least three coats of Latex Rubber, placing gauze strips between each layer. Clean paintbrush between coats with warm, soapy water.
- Approximately how many rocks from a Rock Mold will 1/2 gallon of Hydrocal make?
  
  A 1/2 gallon carton of Lightweight Hydrocal® will yield approximately 14 medium-sized rocks.
  
  The actual number of rock castings will depend on which Rock Mold is used and how full it is filled. For example, Rock Mold Strata or Classic and a 1/2 gallon of Lightweight Hydrocal will yield 8-10 full-pour rocks.
  
  Hydrocal® is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
- What is the dry quantity of lightweight hydrocal needed to cast one rock in a rock mold?
  
  Rock castings can be made from the following Woodland Scenics plaster products: Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster (C1201), Super Strength Plaster (C1199), Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180), and Carving Plaster (C1198).
  
  Fill the Rock Mold with water, and then pour the water into a measuring cup. Measure the amount of water and divide by two. This is the amount of water you will add to the Plaster. Times the water amount by 2.5 to find the amount of Plaster you will need.
  
  Example: Rock Mold holds 4 fluid ounces of water.
  4 fluid ounces divided by 2 = 2 fluid ounces.
  2 fluid ounces times 2.5 = 5 fluid ounces.
  Add 5 fluid ounces of Plaster to 2 fluid ounces of water. Prepare Plaster per instructions on carton.
- Is Scenic Cement used to seal Hydrocal rock castings after painting?
  
  Yes. Rock castings colored with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments should be sprayed with Scenic Cement. This will seal the pigments onto the castings and reduce fading overtime.
  
  Click here to view how to seal rock castings.
Pigments

Color terrain, rocks and plaster castings realistically with Undercoat Pigments and Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment. They are more realistic than paint, highly concentrated for economical usage and available in eight colors.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I tint Water Effects™?
  
  You can use our Water Tint which is specially formulated to tint Deep Pour Water, Realistic Water and Surface Water. Or you can mix a small amount of Earth Colors® Liquid Pigment or water-soluble paint into Water Effects™ before applying.
- I have your Timber Single Portal HO Scale. How do you paint it to make it look like wood?
  
  For a realistic timber appearance, we recommend using Earth Colors Liquid Pigment - Burnt Umber and Black. Dilute 1-part Burnt Umber with 8-parts water and brush over the entire Portal as a base color. Over the Burnt Umber, apply a black color-wash. Dilute 1-part Black with a approximately 32-parts water. Brush and dab on the black wash, letting it seep into all the crevices. Adjust amount of water for desired look.
  
  For the box photo, we brushed on a less diluted black wash above the tunnel opening to model the build-up of train smoke.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration on painting Timber.
- What color pigments do you suggest I use on Tunnel Portals and Walls to make them look realistic?
  
  The photo of the Single Track Timber Portal, shown on the website is a good example of a realistic Tunnel Portal. We used Burnt Umber for the main color and then applied a wash using a thin solution of Black. You could also use Stone Gray as an accent.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration on painting Portals, Retaining Walls and Culverts.
- I purchased all of your Earth Colors pigments. Would you please suggest the pigments that would be good for basic rock coloring?
  
  We typically suggest Yellow Ocher, Burnt Umber and Black for generic rock coloring, however different geographic locations have rocks of different color so choose the pigments that best represent the area you are modeling.
  
  The Leopard Spot technique is our favorite method for coloring rocks. It is a simple technique that yields realistic results. Start with the suggested dilution ratios. If darker colors are desired, add additional pigment to washes.
  
  -Dilute 2 different secondary colors, 1-part pigment to 16-parts water. Color suggestions: Yellow Ocher and Burnt Umber.
  
  -Dilute a third pigment for a dominate color, 1-part pigment to 32-parts water. Color suggestion: Black.
  
  Start with the lightest secondary rock color. Using a foam brush, dab first color randomly over 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Dab the next secondary color randomly over a different 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Leave approximately 1/3 of the rock white.
  
  Brush and dab the dominate Black Wash over the entire rock face. The Black Wash pulls the colors together. When dry, seal rock colors with Scenic Cement (S191) and let dry. Then, brush on a less diluted Black Wash (1:16) to accentuate rock detail. Spray again with Scenic Cement to seal.
  
  Click here to view a video on coloring rocks.
- Can the Liquid Pigments be applied with an airbrush? If so should it be diluted?
  
  Yes, Earth Colors Liquid Pigments can be applied with an airbrush. Diluting the pigments is done primarily to adjust the shade of the color. Leave it full concentrate for the darkest color and add water to achieve lighter results.
- Do you dilute the Earth Undercoat with water?
  
  Yes. We recommend diluting 1-part Earth Undercoat with 2-parts water. You can add more or less water to reach your desired terrain coloring.
- I wish to change the color and shade of some packets of ballast as I can not match any of your products to the color that I require. Could you please recommend the types of inks, dyes, paints or anything I could use to effect the changes that I need.
  
  We recommend using our Earth Colors Liquid Pigments (C1216-C1223, C1228, C1229) to dye Ballast.
  
  In a disposable plastic cup, add Ballast to desired color of pigment and mix thoroughly with a craft stick or paintbrush. If a lighter color is desired, dilute pigment with water. Let set until preferred color is achieved. Spread out Ballast on newspaper or paper towels and let dry.
- What is the difference between Woodland Scenics Liquid Pigment and common acrylic paint?
  
  Earth Colors Liquid Pigment colors like stain. They are easily absorbed into porous surfaces, such as Plaster Cloth and plaster-based products.
- How do I model a dirt road?
  
  There are many different ways to model a dirt road. Here are a couple of ideas.
  
  Paint your road with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments - Earth Undercoat . When dry, spray with Scenic Cement and sprinkle on Earth Fine Turf. This will add the texture of dirt. When desired amount of Turf is applied, spray with a final light coat of Scenic Cement to seal in place.
  
  Use Gravel - Buff Fine. The included Accent Powder will add just the right touch of realistic coloring.
  
  Click here to view a video on modeling gravel/dirt roads.
- There is too much black wash on my rocks, can I lighten or remove the black wash and rock coloring?
  
  Yes, the black wash can be lightened, as long as it has not been sealed already with Scenic Cement. Flood-spray the casting with hot salt water (1 tsp in 6 fluid oz of hot water). Wait one minute, and spray again if needed. Dab with paper towels to remove the liquid. The base colors will remain on the rock, but the coloring will be much lighter.
  
  If you would like to start over completely, paint the casting with White Earth Colors Liquid Pigment. Dilute the White Pigment 1:1 with water.
  
  When satisfied with the coloring on your casting, spray with Scenic Cement to seal the colors and let dry.
  
  Click here to learn how to lighten rock castings when the wash is too dark.
- How do I color my water area and what products should I use?
  
  You can use our Water Undercoat, Water Undercoat Terrain Paint, or 100% acrylic paint to color the water area. Or you can use Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigments. If using Earth Colors Liquid Pigments, seal area with Scenic Cement™ afterwards and allow it to dry.
  
  Another way to model a realistic water area is to use dark and light shades of color. The darker the shade, the deeper the water will appear.
  
  Paint entire terrain, including water area, with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or Earth Undercoat. In the center of the water area, use Slate Gray Liquid Pigment or Black Liquid Pigment to model deep water. For the shoreline, dilute the darker pigment with 16-parts water or choose a lighter shade, such as Stone Gray Liquid Pigment. Be sure to blend the edges where the paint shades meet to avoid harsh transition lines and model realistic changes in depth.
  
  If you are using Realistic Water and are not using Earth Colors Liquid Pigments, check with the manufacturer to make sure the paint you are using is 100% acrylic. Most craft paints, including premium brands, contain vinyl fillers. Vinyl in paint could have an adverse reaction with Realistic Water.
  
  Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
- What pigment colors can I use so my rocks achieve the Sandstone look?
  
  Color recommendation: Use Burnt Umber and Yellow Ocher as secondary colors. Then, use Raw Umber as the dominant color.
  
  You may want to consider purchasing the Earth Colors Kit. It includes all eight Earth Colors Liquid Pigments and detailed instructions for coloring rocks. This would allow you to experiment with different colors to achieve your desired look.
- My Lightweight Hydrocal will not take the Liquid Pigments in some areas of my terrain?
  
  Some natural shading should occur when painting your Lightweight Hydrocal surface with Liquid Pigments. However, if the surface is not absorbing pigment and remains white, those areas probably have been contaminated with glue or another substance.
- Can a Lightweight Hydrocal base be colored with acrylic paint?
  
  We recommend using our Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment on Lightweight Hydrocal®* castings. You will want to be sure that there is no glue or other residue on the casting before applying the Pigments, because color may not adhere or may become blotchy.
  
  *Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
- Is there any specific type of paint you recommend to paint the plaster cloth after it has been applied to the layout?
  
  We recommend using Earth Colors Liquid Pigment, Earth Undercoat or Green Undercoat. They yield realistic results and are formulated to blend naturally with our Turf products.
  
  Click here to view how to paint Plaster Cloth surface with Earth Colors.
- Is Scenic Cement used to seal Hydrocal rock castings after painting?
  
  Yes. Rock castings colored with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments should be sprayed with Scenic Cement. This will seal the pigments onto the castings and reduce fading overtime.
  
  Click here to view how to seal rock castings.
Portals, Culverts & Retaining Walls

Tunnel Portals, Retaining Walls, Culverts, and Roads reinforce natural terrain contours and add functionality, realism and interest to your layout.
Frequently Asked Questions
- At what stage in building a layout are Tunnel Portals installed?
  
  Tunnel Portals can be installed at various times throughout the layout modeling process. We recommend installing them after Plaster Cloth or Shaper Sheet Shaper Sheet Plaster has been applied.
  
  Tunnel Portals can also be installed throughout the landscaping process, making it easy to add them to an existing layout. Cut into the terrrain (if additonal room is needed for the portal) and install per package instructions.
- I have your Timber Single Portal HO Scale. How do you paint it to make it look like wood?
  
  For a realistic timber appearance, we recommend using Earth Colors Liquid Pigment - Burnt Umber and Black. Dilute 1-part Burnt Umber with 8-parts water and brush over the entire Portal as a base color. Over the Burnt Umber, apply a black color-wash. Dilute 1-part Black with a approximately 32-parts water. Brush and dab on the black wash, letting it seep into all the crevices. Adjust amount of water for desired look.
  
  For the box photo, we brushed on a less diluted black wash above the tunnel opening to model the build-up of train smoke.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration on painting Timber.
- What color pigments do you suggest I use on Tunnel Portals and Walls to make them look realistic?
  
  The photo of the Single Track Timber Portal, shown on the website is a good example of a realistic Tunnel Portal. We used Burnt Umber for the main color and then applied a wash using a thin solution of Black. You could also use Stone Gray as an accent.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration on painting Portals, Retaining Walls and Culverts.
Road System

The road system offers every material you need to build and stripe paved roads and parking lots. Add grade crossings and model sidewalks and gravel roads.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How wide should City Streets, Country Roads, Highway Lanes and Sidewalks be according to scale?
  
  N SCALE
  TWO-LANE CITY STREET - 1 15/16"
  TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 1 1/2"
  HIGHWAY LANE - 7/8" to 1 3/8"
  SIDEWALK - 1/4"
  
  HO SCALE
  TWO-LANE CITY STREET – 4 1/8”
  TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 3 9/16"
  HIGHWAY LANE - 1 5/8" to 2 1/2"
  SIDEWALK - 1/2"
  
  O SCALE
  TWO-LANE CITY STREET – 6 1/2”
  TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 5"
  HIGHWAY LANE - 2 1/4" to 4 1/2"
  SIDEWALK - 1”
- Will your Top Coat Asphalt and Top Coat Concrete paints fade over time?
  
  Unless they are exposed to direct sunlight for many hours each day, the colors will not fade to any noticeable degree.
- Is your Top Coat Concrete more of a gray or sand color when dry? And does it have a texture in it?
  
  Top Coat Concrete is sand color and models a realistic, weathered-concrete look. Top Coat does not have an added texture.
- What do you recommend using to stripe roads?
  
  To make road striping easy, we suggest using the Flexi Edge flexible road ruler and Road Striping Pens in White and Yellow. When applied onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, road striping mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration of road markings.
- I am trying to add sidewalks to my layout per instructions but the paving tape will not stick to existing Smooth It.
  
  Paving Tape will only stick to Smooth-It if it is dry. If the road feels cool to the touch, it needs additional drying time. Try placing fans in the area to speed up the process.
- How do I put road stripes on a curved road? I have dry transfer stripes but I can't get them to curve.
  
  Cut the decal into individual stripes. Trace a very light line where road stripes are desired. When transferring the decal, it is important to burnish slowly and carefully. Use the wide tip of a burnisher. Start at one end of the road, place the decal on the start of the line and burnish the back of the decal bit-by-bit, following the line. Continue until stripes are completed.
  
  To make road stripping easier, we recommend using Road Striping Pens in White or Yellow and the Flexi Edge road striping guide. When the Road Striping Pens are applied onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover.
- To make the roads and sidewalks do I have to remove the paving tape after the smooth it sets?
  
  Yes. After the Smooth-It is set, you should remove the Paving Tape.
- Do you have any products and / or advice for making crowned roads (higher in the center), gutters, manholes, and drainage grates along the curbs, as are typically found in larger towns and cities with storm drains?
  
  To model a crowned road, we recommend using our Road System. Use strips of Paving Tape to make a form for the road. Instead of using single-layer strips of Paving Tape as noted in the instructions, stack two strips on top of each to make the road twice as thick. Prepare Smooth-It per package instructions and pour into the form. Remove the Paving Tape after approximately 30 minutes, and then let the Smooth-It finish drying completely. It is dry when it is no longer cool to the touch. Sand and shape dried Smooth-It with 220-grit sandpaper into desired crowned road formation.
  
  To add gutters, create forms with Paving Tape after the crowned road is completed.
  
  To add storm drains, use a hobby knife to gently score desired pattern into dried Smooth-It. Work slowly to avoid cracking. Use pieces of styrene to create storm drain grates and manhole covers.
  
  Paint paved areas with Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete.
- How do I model a dirt road?
  
  There are many different ways to model a dirt road. Here are a couple of ideas.
  
  Paint your road with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments - Earth Undercoat . When dry, spray with Scenic Cement and sprinkle on Earth Fine Turf. This will add the texture of dirt. When desired amount of Turf is applied, spray with a final light coat of Scenic Cement to seal in place.
  
  Use Gravel - Buff Fine. The included Accent Powder will add just the right touch of realistic coloring.
  
  Click here to view a video on modeling gravel/dirt roads.
- Can most acrylic paints be added to your Top Coat Asphalt to change the color to more closely match the color of the prototype road I'm modeling?
  
  Yes. Water-based acrylic paint can be mixed into Top Coat Asphalt and Concrete.
- I have Model Graphics dry transfer decals Stripes Yellow and White and I want to make stripes for my road. What size should I use and how many packages should I order?
  
  Research the era and the geographic area you are modeling for the correct standards.
  
  Modern lane lines are generally 4-inches wide. This includes road, highway, and parking lot lines in white (solid and dashed) and yellow (single, double, solid and dashed).
  N Scale: 4” = 0.025 / Decal: 1/32”
  
  HO Scale: 4” = 0.046 / Decal: 3/64”
  O Scale: Place two 3/64" decals side-by-side
  
  Our Model Graphics – Stripes are approximately 7-1/2 inches in length. The number of packages needed will depend on your chosen scale and length of road.
  
  Here are the size and quantity per package.
  
  Size   # of pcs
  
  0.01    12 pcs
  
  1/64    11 pcs
  
  0.22    12 pcs
  
  1/32    8 pcs
  
  3/64    8 pcs
  
  To make road stripping easy, we recommend using Road Striping Pens in White or Yellow and the Flexi Edge road striping guide. When the Road Striping Pens are applied onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover.
- Isn't the paving tape too tall for an n scale gutter?
  
  Paving Tape is a little tall for a true N scale curb. However, if a curb was made to actual N scale specifications, it would be nearly undetectable and extremely difficult to make. Practicality and forced perspective are guiding factors in modeling.
- When using the Road Striping Pens, will my road stripes be too thin for O guage?
  
  You will need to make this determination for yourself after completing your road striping. If you feel the stripes are too thin for O scale, apply a second strip side-by-side to the first to double the thickness. Make sure to let your striping dry completely before applying the second set of stripes.
- Could you please tell me the prototype dimensions of the following? 1. The length & width of white & yellow lane markings (both dotted & solid lines) used on U.S. streets & roads and the distance between them.
  
  While this is not our area of expertise, we have done a fair amount of research on the subject. We have found modern lane lines are generally four inches wide. This includes road, highway, and parking lot lines in white (solid and dashed) and yellow (single, double, solid and dashed). There are federal guidelines, but road striping can vary from state to state. We recommend contacting the department of transportation for regulations in your area.
  
  When modeling a road, it is our philosophy that road striping is matter of perspective. When modeling true to scale, some features can end up looking out of proportion to each other. You should model what looks best to you.
- What will happen if the Top Coat Asphalt or Top Coat Concrete gets sprayed with Scenic Cement?
  
  Scenic Cement overspray on Top Coat will be noticeable. If there is landscaping to be done around a paved area, cover dried Top Coat with damp paper towels to absorb any overspray.
- Should I cover my asphalt painted roads prior to spraying Scenic Cement on the surrounding areas?
  
  Yes. Scenic Cement should not be sprayed onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, it will leave the surface spotty. If there is landscaping to be done around the road area, cover dried Top Coat with a damp paper towel to absorb any overspray.
- I am wanting to put the Smooth-It product on an incline. My question is, can I keep it from running?
  
  For inclines up to 30 degrees (maximum recommended degree), it will need to have a thicker consistency. Mix 2-1/2 parts Smooth-It to 1 part cold water.
- Can the Smooth-It be used directly on Homosote? And should I first seal it with shellack?
  
  Yes, you can use Smooth-It™ directly on Homosote. Prior to applying the Smooth-It, sand the surface with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Do not use shellack.
- I have a layout that I will be moving often. Will the Smooth-It product work for the roadways or will it crack like regular plaster does?
  
  For this type of application, we recommend using Foam Putty or Flex Paste as an alternative. Sand smooth and brush on at least two coats Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete.
- Is it possible to slow down the work/dry time of the Smooth-It?
  
  Yes, you can slow down the setting time of the Smooth-It™. This is accomplished by using cold water in the mixture.
- Can I use the Road Striping Pens on top of Smooth-It without it being painted?
  
  The Road Striping Pens will mark on top of dried Smooth-It, but markings will be permanent and unable to be removed by the Road Stripe Remover.
- On what type of surface do I model roads when using Smooth-It?
  
  Smooth-It should be applied onto porous surfaces, such as Plaster Cloth, Shaper Sheet™ Plaster, Foam Sheets or plywood. You can use Smooth-It to create a roadway, parking lot or other similar surface. We recommend modeling large projects in small sections. Use Paving Tape to outline the perimeter and then section off the interior into smaller segments. This will make the project easier to handle.
- If I pour a section of Smooth-It and add another section at a later date, will the joining of the different pours adhere properly?
  
  Old and new sections of Smooth-It can be joined together seamlessly. Spray the original section with water and when pouring the new section use the Spreader to blend the two sections together. When dry, sand lightly with #220-grit sandpaper.
- I would like to color my Smooth-It prior to pouring it on my layout. Is this possible?
  
  Yes. You may use Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or any water-based paint (such as acrylic) or dye to color Smooth-It. Mix the colorant into the water before adding Smooth-It.
  
  When adding colorant, the color of the plaster will not be as vivid as when painted. It will have a muted, chalky appearance. We suggest doing a small test area to ensure the color of the dried product meets your needs.
- I will be applying Smooth-It to construction grade foam board. Do I need to "seal" the foam with anything before applying ?
  
  Smooth-It should be applied onto porous surfaces, so when applying it to construction grade foam, certain preparations must first be made. If there is a clear plastic backing material on the foam, remove it. Sand the surface of the foam with #100-grit sandpaper to give it some tooth, so the Smooth-It has something to stick to. Do not seal the foam prior to adding Smooth-It.
Tools & Adhesives

Tested for performance and quality, Terrain System Tools and Adhesives make it fast and easy to build your terrain.
Frequently Asked Questions
- I am using Latex Rubber and it won't dry. What am I doing wrong?
  
  You may be applying it too thick. Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers, letting each layer dry completely for approximately 30 minutes (dry time varies due to environmental conditions). When applied, Latex Rubber is opaque and off-white in color. It is pale yellow and slightly translucent when dry.
- Can latex rubber be thinned? How do I clean the applicator brushes after using it?
  
  It is best to not thin the Latex Rubber. Adding water could change the make-up of the product. It is thick by design to adhere to vertical surfaces.
  
  Brushes should be cleaned immediately with warm, soapy water, then rinsed well. If the Latex Rubber dries on the brush, there is no way to remove it.
- I have just started making my own rock molds. The Latex Rubber product says to apply each coat and let dry before the next one. What is an average drying time (it's hot and dry here)?
  
  Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers. Dry time is approximately 30 minutes, but can vary due to environmental conditions. When first applied, it is opaque and off-white in color. Latex Rubber is dry when it has turned pale yellow and is slightly translucent.
  
  For durable, long-lasting molds, apply at least three coats of Latex Rubber, placing gauze strips between each layer. Clean paintbrush between coats with warm, soapy water.
- I made a mold with your Latex Rubber. What do I use as a release agent for my mold?
  
  Before applying Latex Rubber to the item you want to make a casting of, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the object.
  
  Before pouring plaster into the Latex Rubber mold, spray the mold with wet water (mix 1-2 drops liquid dish soap in 8 fl oz water).
- Is your Latex Rubber pre-vulcanized?
  
  Latex Rubber is prevulcanized, it does not require heat to cure.
- Will Latex Rubber create heat while curing? I plan to apply it over styrofoam to make and mold and wonder if it will melt the styrofoam.
  
  Latex Rubber does not generate heat while drying. However, it will adhere to the Styrofoam and you will not be able to remove the mold. To make a mold using these products, the Styrofoam should first need be sealed with acrylic paint. When the paint is dry, a release agent (such as petroleum jelly) should be applied to the piece.
- What is the drying time on Flex Paste?
  
  The drying time of Flex Paste varies with thickness of application and environment. A thin layer will dry in approximately 30-40 minutes. Flex Paste should be applied no thicker than 1/16. Humid weather will extend the drying time. To speed up drying time, place a fan in the room
- I want to Ballast my track. Can I put Scenic Glue over my Track-Bed to adhere it?
  
  We recommend using Scenic Cement™ rather than Scenic Glue™ because the Ballast will lay more evenly and be better secured.
  
  Apply Ballast onto track and brush from rails and top of ties. Mist adhesive over Ballast to wet the surface, and then saturate it for a strong bond using an eyedropper or the Scenic Sprayer™. Clean rails before use.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.
- Does Scenic Cement adhere to any type of surface and material? What is the normal time until it is completely dry and ready to respray to add more covering?
  
  Scenic Cement works best when used with porous materials. Let dry approximately 30 minutes between applications.
- Is Scenic Cement used to seal Hydrocal rock castings after painting?
  
  Yes. Rock castings colored with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments should be sprayed with Scenic Cement. This will seal the pigments onto the castings and reduce fading overtime.
  
  Click here to view how to seal rock castings.
- I have a layout that I will be moving often. Will the Smooth-It product work for the roadways or will it crack like regular plaster does?
  
  For this type of application, we recommend using Foam Putty or Flex Paste as an alternative. Sand smooth and brush on at least two coats Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete.

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Terrain

Understructure & Formation

Frequently Asked Questions

Plasters

Frequently Asked Questions

Rock Molds, Ready Rocks™, Custom & Debris

Frequently Asked Questions

Pigments

Frequently Asked Questions

Portals, Culverts & Retaining Walls

Frequently Asked Questions

Road System

Frequently Asked Questions

Tools & Adhesives

Frequently Asked Questions

Rock Molds, Ready Rocks^™, Custom & Debris