Terrain & Landscape

Modeling scenery is one of the most creative and enjoyable aspects of building a layout, diorama, display or other project. The Terrain and Landscape Systems produce superior realism and make your modeling experience, easy and fail-safe. For comprehensive tutorials on modeling Terrain and Landscape, see The Complete Guide to Model Scenery and Terrain and Landscape Videos.

Terrain

Model any type of terrain in any geographic area with spectacular results. Each Terrain System product includes easy-to-follow, illustrated instructions.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How wide should City Streets, Country Roads, Highway Lanes and Sidewalks be according to scale?
  
  N SCALE
  TWO-LANE CITY STREET - 1 15/16"
  TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 1 1/2"
  HIGHWAY LANE - 7/8" to 1 3/8"
  SIDEWALK - 1/4"
  
  HO SCALE
  TWO-LANE CITY STREET – 4 1/8”
  TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 3 9/16"
  HIGHWAY LANE - 1 5/8" to 2 1/2"
  SIDEWALK - 1/2"
  
  O SCALE
  TWO-LANE CITY STREET – 6 1/2”
  TWO-LANE COUNTRY ROAD - 5"
  HIGHWAY LANE - 2 1/4" to 4 1/2"
  SIDEWALK - 1”
- Once opened, how long will the plaster products keep? What is the best way to store it?
  
  When stored properly, plaster products have a very long (years) shelf life as long as they are stored in a way that keeps moisture away from the product. Put any of our plasters (Hydrocal, Shaper Sheet Plaster, Carving Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, or Mold-A-Scene) in a sealed plastic bag. Place the sealed bag in a tightly sealed, non-breakable container. This double seal will prevent moisture from interacting with the plaster.
- At what stage in building a layout are Tunnel Portals installed?
  
  Tunnel Portals can be installed at various times throughout the layout modeling process. We recommend installing them after Plaster Cloth or Shaper Sheet Shaper Sheet Plaster has been applied.
  
  Tunnel Portals can also be installed throughout the landscaping process, making it easy to add them to an existing layout. Cut into the terrrain (if additonal room is needed for the portal) and install per package instructions.
- What is recommended to use as a base sealer prior to pouring the Realistic Water?
  
  We recommend sealing a water feature base with Plaster Cloth. Apply as instructed on the label, ensuring all holes in the Cloth are filled in before pouring Realistic Water.
  
  Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
- Will your Top Coat Asphalt and Top Coat Concrete paints fade over time?
  
  Unless they are exposed to direct sunlight for many hours each day, the colors will not fade to any noticeable degree.
- I have your Timber Single Portal HO Scale. How do you paint it to make it look like wood?
  
  For a realistic timber appearance, we recommend using Earth Colors Liquid Pigment - Burnt Umber and Black. Dilute 1-part Burnt Umber with 8-parts water and brush over the entire Portal as a base color. Over the Burnt Umber, apply a black color-wash. Dilute 1-part Black with a approximately 32-parts water. Brush and dab on the black wash, letting it seep into all the crevices. Adjust amount of water for desired look.
  
  For the box photo, we brushed on a less diluted black wash above the tunnel opening to model the build-up of train smoke.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration on painting Timber.
- What color pigments do you suggest I use on Tunnel Portals and Walls to make them look realistic?
  
  The photo of the Single Track Timber Portal, shown on the website is a good example of a realistic Tunnel Portal. We used Burnt Umber for the main color and then applied a wash using a thin solution of Black. You could also use Stone Gray as an accent.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration on painting Portals, Retaining Walls and Culverts.
- Is The Tunnel Liner Form reusable?
  
  The Tunnel Liner Form is reuseable. If it is well cared for, it can be used to make several castings. Be sure to clean it thoroughly before and after each use.
- I purchased all of your Earth Colors pigments. Would you please suggest the pigments that would be good for basic rock coloring?
  
  We typically suggest Yellow Ocher, Burnt Umber and Black for generic rock coloring, however different geographic locations have rocks of different color so choose the pigments that best represent the area you are modeling.
  
  The Leopard Spot technique is our favorite method for coloring rocks. It is a simple technique that yields realistic results. Start with the suggested dilution ratios. If darker colors are desired, add additional pigment to washes.
  
  -Dilute 2 different secondary colors, 1-part pigment to 16-parts water. Color suggestions: Yellow Ocher and Burnt Umber.
  
  -Dilute a third pigment for a dominate color, 1-part pigment to 32-parts water. Color suggestion: Black.
  
  Start with the lightest secondary rock color. Using a foam brush, dab first color randomly over 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Dab the next secondary color randomly over a different 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Leave approximately 1/3 of the rock white.
  
  Brush and dab the dominate Black Wash over the entire rock face. The Black Wash pulls the colors together. When dry, seal rock colors with Scenic Cement (S191) and let dry. Then, brush on a less diluted Black Wash (1:16) to accentuate rock detail. Spray again with Scenic Cement to seal.
  
  Click here to view a video on coloring rocks.
- Would it be possible to order six or eight 3.5 inch foam risers?
  
  We do not make 3.5 inch risers. To accomplish this, install our 2 ", 1 " and 1/2 " risers on top of one another to create that height. Each package contains 4 each and each piece is 2.5 " wide x 24 " long. The quantities to purchase will depend on the planned length of your track.
- Is your Top Coat Concrete more of a gray or sand color when dry? And does it have a texture in it?
  
  Top Coat Concrete is sand color and models a realistic, weathered-concrete look. Top Coat does not have an added texture.
- Will hills made with the ReadyGrass Mat be strong enough to support lead miniature wargaming figures? Lots of them, and for long periods of time?
  
  For this application, we suggest using Shaper Sheet and Shaper Sheet Plaster. Shaper Sheet is a revolutionary material that can be shaped and reshaped to form terrain with any level of detail. When covered in Shaper Sheet Plaster, it becomes a very durable surface that will support heavy game play.
  
  Cover Shaper Sheet Plaster in landscape materials to model a realistic gaming terrain.
- What do you recommend using to stripe roads?
  
  To make road striping easy, we suggest using the Flexi Edge flexible road ruler and Road Striping Pens in White and Yellow. When applied onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, road striping mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration of road markings.
- Can the Liquid Pigments be applied with an airbrush? If so should it be diluted?
  
  Yes, Earth Colors Liquid Pigments can be applied with an airbrush. Diluting the pigments is done primarily to adjust the shade of the color. Leave it full concentrate for the darkest color and add water to achieve lighter results.
- What is the best way to clean rock molds after use?
  
  An old toothbrush, warm soapy water and a bit of light scrubbing will take dried hydrocal right off.
- Do you dilute the Earth Undercoat with water?
  
  Yes. We recommend diluting 1-part Earth Undercoat with 2-parts water. You can add more or less water to reach your desired terrain coloring.
- I wish to change the color and shade of some packets of ballast as I can not match any of your products to the color that I require. Could you please recommend the types of inks, dyes, paints or anything I could use to effect the changes that I need.
  
  We recommend using our Earth Colors Liquid Pigments (C1216-C1223, C1228, C1229) to dye Ballast.
  
  In a disposable plastic cup, add Ballast to desired color of pigment and mix thoroughly with a craft stick or paintbrush. If a lighter color is desired, dilute pigment with water. Let set until preferred color is achieved. Spread out Ballast on newspaper or paper towels and let dry.
- Is the Shaper Sheet strong enough to run a few levels of O scale train over it or would this require additional support?
  
  Shaper Sheet is a terrain modeling material. It is not intended to be used as a level surface for running trains. To elevate track and create smooth elevation transitions, we recommend using Risers and Inclines/Declines as a track foundation. Cover Risers and Inclines/Declines with Plaster Cloth, and then form terrain contours with Shaper Sheet and attach it up against the edge of the Risers and Inclines/Declines.
- What is the difference between Woodland Scenics Liquid Pigment and common acrylic paint?
  
  Earth Colors Liquid Pigment colors like stain. They are easily absorbed into porous surfaces, such as Plaster Cloth and plaster-based products.
- I am trying to add sidewalks to my layout per instructions but the paving tape will not stick to existing Smooth It.
  
  Paving Tape will only stick to Smooth-It if it is dry. If the road feels cool to the touch, it needs additional drying time. Try placing fans in the area to speed up the process.
- To make the roads and sidewalks do I have to remove the paving tape after the smooth it sets?
  
  Yes. After the Smooth-It is set, you should remove the Paving Tape.
- Do you have any products and / or advice for making crowned roads (higher in the center), gutters, manholes, and drainage grates along the curbs, as are typically found in larger towns and cities with storm drains?
  
  To model a crowned road, we recommend using our Road System. Use strips of Paving Tape to make a form for the road. Instead of using single-layer strips of Paving Tape as noted in the instructions, stack two strips on top of each to make the road twice as thick. Prepare Smooth-It per package instructions and pour into the form. Remove the Paving Tape after approximately 30 minutes, and then let the Smooth-It finish drying completely. It is dry when it is no longer cool to the touch. Sand and shape dried Smooth-It with 220-grit sandpaper into desired crowned road formation.
  
  To add gutters, create forms with Paving Tape after the crowned road is completed.
  
  To add storm drains, use a hobby knife to gently score desired pattern into dried Smooth-It. Work slowly to avoid cracking. Use pieces of styrene to create storm drain grates and manhole covers.
  
  Paint paved areas with Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete.
- How do I model a dirt road?
  
  There are many different ways to model a dirt road. Here are a couple of ideas.
  
  Paint your road with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments - Earth Undercoat . When dry, spray with Scenic Cement and sprinkle on Earth Fine Turf. This will add the texture of dirt. When desired amount of Turf is applied, spray with a final light coat of Scenic Cement to seal in place.
  
  Use Gravel - Buff Fine. The included Accent Powder will add just the right touch of realistic coloring.
  
  Click here to view a video on modeling gravel/dirt roads.
- Can most acrylic paints be added to your Top Coat Asphalt to change the color to more closely match the color of the prototype road I'm modeling?
  
  Yes. Water-based acrylic paint can be mixed into Top Coat Asphalt and Concrete.
- Shaper Sheet is great but too time consuming to peel and stick together, is there a glue I can use in place of the peel and stick method?
  
  Low Temp Foam Glue can be used, but it may pull away from the foil when forming it into terrain shapes.
  
  Another method is to form the sheets individually, aligning them side-by-side. Fold the connecting edges over approximately 1” so the fiber mesh edges face each other. Connect the sheets together with Shaper Sheet Plaster.
- There is too much black wash on my rocks, can I lighten or remove the black wash and rock coloring?
  
  Yes, the black wash can be lightened, as long as it has not been sealed already with Scenic Cement. Flood-spray the casting with hot salt water (1 tsp in 6 fluid oz of hot water). Wait one minute, and spray again if needed. Dab with paper towels to remove the liquid. The base colors will remain on the rock, but the coloring will be much lighter.
  
  If you would like to start over completely, paint the casting with White Earth Colors Liquid Pigment. Dilute the White Pigment 1:1 with water.
  
  When satisfied with the coloring on your casting, spray with Scenic Cement to seal the colors and let dry.
  
  Click here to learn how to lighten rock castings when the wash is too dark.
- What are Woodland Scenics Rock Molds made out of?
  
  Rock Molds are made of a non-latex polymer.
- I have Model Graphics dry transfer decals Stripes Yellow and White and I want to make stripes for my road. What size should I use and how many packages should I order?
  
  Research the era and the geographic area you are modeling for the correct standards.
  
  Modern lane lines are generally 4-inches wide. This includes road, highway, and parking lot lines in white (solid and dashed) and yellow (single, double, solid and dashed).
  N Scale: 4” = 0.025 / Decal: 1/32”
  
  HO Scale: 4” = 0.046 / Decal: 3/64”
  O Scale: Place two 3/64" decals side-by-side
  
  Our Model Graphics – Stripes are approximately 7-1/2 inches in length. The number of packages needed will depend on your chosen scale and length of road.
  
  Here are the size and quantity per package.
  
  Size   # of pcs
  
  0.01    12 pcs
  
  1/64    11 pcs
  
  0.22    12 pcs
  
  1/32    8 pcs
  
  3/64    8 pcs
  
  To make road stripping easy, we recommend using Road Striping Pens in White or Yellow and the Flexi Edge road striping guide. When the Road Striping Pens are applied onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, mistakes are easily removed with the Road Stripe Remover.
- How do I color my water area and what products should I use?
  
  You can use our Water Undercoat, Water Undercoat Terrain Paint, or 100% acrylic paint to color the water area. Or you can use Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigments. If using Earth Colors Liquid Pigments, seal area with Scenic Cement™ afterwards and allow it to dry.
  
  Another way to model a realistic water area is to use dark and light shades of color. The darker the shade, the deeper the water will appear.
  
  Paint entire terrain, including water area, with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or Earth Undercoat. In the center of the water area, use Slate Gray Liquid Pigment or Black Liquid Pigment to model deep water. For the shoreline, dilute the darker pigment with 16-parts water or choose a lighter shade, such as Stone Gray Liquid Pigment. Be sure to blend the edges where the paint shades meet to avoid harsh transition lines and model realistic changes in depth.
  
  If you are using Realistic Water and are not using Earth Colors Liquid Pigments, check with the manufacturer to make sure the paint you are using is 100% acrylic. Most craft paints, including premium brands, contain vinyl fillers. Vinyl in paint could have an adverse reaction with Realistic Water.
  
  Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
- Can I use Shaper Sheet Plaster in your rock molds?
  
  Yes. Shaper Sheet Plaster provides excellent detail when used as a casting plaster.
- Is Shaper Sheet plaster required for a hard shell or will Hydrocal or others work as well?
  
  Any of our plaster-based products can be used on Shaper Sheet to create a hard shell, but deliver varying degrees of hardness. Reference the plaster chart on our website for details.
  Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster
  Carving Plaster
  Super Strength Plaster
  Mold-A-Scene Plaster
  
  We recommend using Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180) because it has an extended working time and the hardness factor. The extended time allows the modeler more time to apply plaster. Typical plaster products have about 5 minutes of working time, while Shaper Sheet Plaster has approximately 20 minutes.
- Can you tell me the meaning of the 2" and 4" measurements on your Support Panels?
  
  The 2" and 4" measurements are the width of the individual, folded panels.
- Isn't the paving tape too tall for an n scale gutter?
  
  Paving Tape is a little tall for a true N scale curb. However, if a curb was made to actual N scale specifications, it would be nearly undetectable and extremely difficult to make. Practicality and forced perspective are guiding factors in modeling.
- When using the Road Striping Pens, will my road stripes be too thin for O guage?
  
  You will need to make this determination for yourself after completing your road striping. If you feel the stripes are too thin for O scale, apply a second strip side-by-side to the first to double the thickness. Make sure to let your striping dry completely before applying the second set of stripes.
- Can I sand shaper sheet plaster?
  
  When dry, Shaper Sheet Plaster is sandable.
- What pigment colors can I use so my rocks achieve the Sandstone look?
  
  Color recommendation: Use Burnt Umber and Yellow Ocher as secondary colors. Then, use Raw Umber as the dominant color.
  
  You may want to consider purchasing the Earth Colors Kit. It includes all eight Earth Colors Liquid Pigments and detailed instructions for coloring rocks. This would allow you to experiment with different colors to achieve your desired look.
- Could you please tell me the prototype dimensions of the following? 1. The length & width of white & yellow lane markings (both dotted & solid lines) used on U.S. streets & roads and the distance between them.
  
  While this is not our area of expertise, we have done a fair amount of research on the subject. We have found modern lane lines are generally four inches wide. This includes road, highway, and parking lot lines in white (solid and dashed) and yellow (single, double, solid and dashed). There are federal guidelines, but road striping can vary from state to state. We recommend contacting the department of transportation for regulations in your area.
  
  When modeling a road, it is our philosophy that road striping is matter of perspective. When modeling true to scale, some features can end up looking out of proportion to each other. You should model what looks best to you.
- Your catalog and Web site pictures make it look as if sunlight is shining on the scenes. How can I do this same thing at home?
  
  We mainly use halogen lighting when we take product photos in our studio. Generally, the model is set-up and one halogen light represents the angle of the sun. One or more diffused lights are used to fill in the rest of the model. A three-point lighting technique, often used in filming video, works well to highlight foliage in the background.
- I am using Latex Rubber and it won't dry. What am I doing wrong?
  
  You may be applying it too thick. Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers, letting each layer dry completely for approximately 30 minutes (dry time varies due to environmental conditions). When applied, Latex Rubber is opaque and off-white in color. It is pale yellow and slightly translucent when dry.
- Can latex rubber be thinned? How do I clean the applicator brushes after using it?
  
  It is best to not thin the Latex Rubber. Adding water could change the make-up of the product. It is thick by design to adhere to vertical surfaces.
  
  Brushes should be cleaned immediately with warm, soapy water, then rinsed well. If the Latex Rubber dries on the brush, there is no way to remove it.
- I have just started making my own rock molds. The Latex Rubber product says to apply each coat and let dry before the next one. What is an average drying time (it's hot and dry here)?
  
  Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers. Dry time is approximately 30 minutes, but can vary due to environmental conditions. When first applied, it is opaque and off-white in color. Latex Rubber is dry when it has turned pale yellow and is slightly translucent.
  
  For durable, long-lasting molds, apply at least three coats of Latex Rubber, placing gauze strips between each layer. Clean paintbrush between coats with warm, soapy water.
- I made a mold with your Latex Rubber. What do I use as a release agent for my mold?
  
  Before applying Latex Rubber to the item you want to make a casting of, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the object.
  
  Before pouring plaster into the Latex Rubber mold, spray the mold with wet water (mix 1-2 drops liquid dish soap in 8 fl oz water).
- Is your Latex Rubber pre-vulcanized?
  
  Latex Rubber is prevulcanized, it does not require heat to cure.
- Will Latex Rubber create heat while curing? I plan to apply it over styrofoam to make and mold and wonder if it will melt the styrofoam.
  
  Latex Rubber does not generate heat while drying. However, it will adhere to the Styrofoam and you will not be able to remove the mold. To make a mold using these products, the Styrofoam should first need be sealed with acrylic paint. When the paint is dry, a release agent (such as petroleum jelly) should be applied to the piece.
- Can Realistic Water be used on Mold-A-Scene?
  
  Yes, Realistic Water can be used over Mold-A-Scene, but you should seal the area according to the Realistic Water instructions.
- What is the drying time on Flex Paste?
  
  The drying time of Flex Paste varies with thickness of application and environment. A thin layer will dry in approximately 30-40 minutes. Flex Paste should be applied no thicker than 1/16. Humid weather will extend the drying time. To speed up drying time, place a fan in the room
- What is the mix ratio of Lightweight Hydrocal?
  
  The mix ratio of Lightweight Hydrocal is 5 parts Hydrocal to 2 parts water (1 1/4 cups Hydrocal to 1/2 cup water).
- My Lightweight Hydrocal is still wet after 40 minutes. The instructions say that it should be dry by now. What am I doing wrong?
  
  Different issues can affect the setting and drying time of Lightweight Hydrocal®.
  
  The amount of water used is critical. Use only the amount indicated in the instructions or the Hydrocal will take much longer to cure and set. If too much water is used, it may never set up completely.
  
  It is very important to shake the carton of Lightweight Hydrocal upside down for 30 seconds to mix contents thoroughly before measuring.
  
  Humidity is another factor. Higher humidity can extend dry time to as long as a few days. Placing a fan in the room to circulate air can speed up drying time.
  
  Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
- Approximately how many rocks from a Rock Mold will 1/2 gallon of Hydrocal make?
  
  A 1/2 gallon carton of Lightweight Hydrocal® will yield approximately 14 medium-sized rocks.
  
  The actual number of rock castings will depend on which Rock Mold is used and how full it is filled. For example, Rock Mold Strata or Classic and a 1/2 gallon of Lightweight Hydrocal will yield 8-10 full-pour rocks.
  
  Hydrocal® is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
- Will Lightweight Hydrocal clog a water drain?
  
  You should not wash any Woodland Scenics plaster product down the drain. This includes Shaper Sheet Plaster, Carving Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster, Mold-A-Scene Plaster, and Smooth-It.
  
  Plaster residue that remains after applying Plaster Cloth should also be discarded in the trash.
- I purchased the Bulk Lightweight Hydrocal which is 5 gallons. The instructions state to mix the contents well before use. Any suggestion how to do this with a 5 gallon bag?
  
  We suggest transferring the entire contents to a heavy-duty plastic trash bag. Ingredients can settle, so it's important to tumble in all directions to mix contents evenly.
- My Lightweight Hydrocal will not take the Liquid Pigments in some areas of my terrain?
  
  Some natural shading should occur when painting your Lightweight Hydrocal surface with Liquid Pigments. However, if the surface is not absorbing pigment and remains white, those areas probably have been contaminated with glue or another substance.
- What are the metric mixing measurements for your Lightweight Hydrocal?
  
  Mix 295 mL of Lightweight Hydrocal with 118 mL of water.
- Can a Lightweight Hydrocal base be colored with acrylic paint?
  
  We recommend using our Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment on Lightweight Hydrocal®* castings. You will want to be sure that there is no glue or other residue on the casting before applying the Pigments, because color may not adhere or may become blotchy.
  
  *Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
- What is the dry quantity of lightweight hydrocal needed to cast one rock in a rock mold?
  
  Rock castings can be made from the following Woodland Scenics plaster products: Lightweight Hydrocal Plaster (C1201), Super Strength Plaster (C1199), Shaper Sheet Plaster (C1180), and Carving Plaster (C1198).
  
  Fill the Rock Mold with water, and then pour the water into a measuring cup. Measure the amount of water and divide by two. This is the amount of water you will add to the Plaster. Times the water amount by 2.5 to find the amount of Plaster you will need.
  
  Example: Rock Mold holds 4 fluid ounces of water.
  4 fluid ounces divided by 2 = 2 fluid ounces.
  2 fluid ounces times 2.5 = 5 fluid ounces.
  Add 5 fluid ounces of Plaster to 2 fluid ounces of water. Prepare Plaster per instructions on carton.
- Is the "dip" method the only way to apply Plaster Cloth?
  
  Another way you can apply Plaster Cloth is to lay managable sizes of dry Plaster Cloth strips on the project. Use a spray bottle to mist with water and use your fingers to smooth out the plaster filling in all the holes.
- Is there any specific type of paint you recommend to paint the plaster cloth after it has been applied to the layout?
  
  We recommend using Earth Colors Liquid Pigment, Earth Undercoat or Green Undercoat. They yield realistic results and are formulated to blend naturally with our Turf products.
  
  Click here to view how to paint Plaster Cloth surface with Earth Colors.
- Should I use warm or cold water to dip the Plaster Cloth in?
  
  We recommend using cold water with Plaster Cloth. Using warm water will cause the plaster to set up quickly, which will shorten the working time.
- I am using Plaster Cloth to create my terrain. When dry, the cloth fibers are visible and some holes are evident. What is the best way to smooth it out?
  
  Filling all holes is only a necessity when you are applying water products, otherwise landscape materials will cover the holes.
  
  Drag the Plaster Cloth through cold water. Do not let it soak in the water or it will lose a lot of the plaster. Make sure that you apply the Plaster Cloth 'bumpy' side up, and then use wet fingers to spread the plaster over the cloth while it's wet. That usually takes care of rough areas and holes. Work efficiently because plaster sets quickly.
  
  Apply a double layer of Plaster Cloth by overlapping each previous layer by 50%. If it needs even further smoothing you can add a thin, smooth layer over problem areas with our Shaper Sheet Plaster, Super Strength Plaster, or Lightweight Hydrocal®.*
  
  *Hydrocal is a U.S. Gypsum registered trademark.
  
  Click here to view a short video about Plaster Cloth.
- I want to Ballast my track. Can I put Scenic Glue over my Track-Bed to adhere it?
  
  We recommend using Scenic Cement™ rather than Scenic Glue™ because the Ballast will lay more evenly and be better secured.
  
  Apply Ballast onto track and brush from rails and top of ties. Mist adhesive over Ballast to wet the surface, and then saturate it for a strong bond using an eyedropper or the Scenic Sprayer™. Clean rails before use.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.
- Does Scenic Cement adhere to any type of surface and material? What is the normal time until it is completely dry and ready to respray to add more covering?
  
  Scenic Cement works best when used with porous materials. Let dry approximately 30 minutes between applications.
- What will happen if the Top Coat Asphalt or Top Coat Concrete gets sprayed with Scenic Cement?
  
  Scenic Cement overspray on Top Coat will be noticeable. If there is landscaping to be done around a paved area, cover dried Top Coat with damp paper towels to absorb any overspray.
- Should I cover my asphalt painted roads prior to spraying Scenic Cement on the surrounding areas?
  
  Yes. Scenic Cement should not be sprayed onto Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete, it will leave the surface spotty. If there is landscaping to be done around the road area, cover dried Top Coat with a damp paper towel to absorb any overspray.
- Is Scenic Cement used to seal Hydrocal rock castings after painting?
  
  Yes. Rock castings colored with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments should be sprayed with Scenic Cement. This will seal the pigments onto the castings and reduce fading overtime.
  
  Click here to view how to seal rock castings.
- I am wanting to put the Smooth-It product on an incline. My question is, can I keep it from running?
  
  For inclines up to 30 degrees (maximum recommended degree), it will need to have a thicker consistency. Mix 2-1/2 parts Smooth-It to 1 part cold water.
- Can the Smooth-It be used directly on Homosote? And should I first seal it with shellack?
  
  Yes, you can use Smooth-It™ directly on Homosote. Prior to applying the Smooth-It, sand the surface with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Do not use shellack.
- I have a layout that I will be moving often. Will the Smooth-It product work for the roadways or will it crack like regular plaster does?
  
  For this type of application, we recommend using Foam Putty or Flex Paste as an alternative. Sand smooth and brush on at least two coats Top Coat Asphalt or Concrete.
- Is it possible to slow down the work/dry time of the Smooth-It?
  
  Yes, you can slow down the setting time of the Smooth-It™. This is accomplished by using cold water in the mixture.
- Can I use the Road Striping Pens on top of Smooth-It without it being painted?
  
  The Road Striping Pens will mark on top of dried Smooth-It, but markings will be permanent and unable to be removed by the Road Stripe Remover.
- On what type of surface do I model roads when using Smooth-It?
  
  Smooth-It should be applied onto porous surfaces, such as Plaster Cloth, Shaper Sheet™ Plaster, Foam Sheets or plywood. You can use Smooth-It to create a roadway, parking lot or other similar surface. We recommend modeling large projects in small sections. Use Paving Tape to outline the perimeter and then section off the interior into smaller segments. This will make the project easier to handle.
- If I pour a section of Smooth-It and add another section at a later date, will the joining of the different pours adhere properly?
  
  Old and new sections of Smooth-It can be joined together seamlessly. Spray the original section with water and when pouring the new section use the Spreader to blend the two sections together. When dry, sand lightly with #220-grit sandpaper.
- I would like to color my Smooth-It prior to pouring it on my layout. Is this possible?
  
  Yes. You may use Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or any water-based paint (such as acrylic) or dye to color Smooth-It. Mix the colorant into the water before adding Smooth-It.
  
  When adding colorant, the color of the plaster will not be as vivid as when painted. It will have a muted, chalky appearance. We suggest doing a small test area to ensure the color of the dried product meets your needs.
- I will be applying Smooth-It to construction grade foam board. Do I need to "seal" the foam with anything before applying ?
  
  Smooth-It should be applied onto porous surfaces, so when applying it to construction grade foam, certain preparations must first be made. If there is a clear plastic backing material on the foam, remove it. Sand the surface of the foam with #100-grit sandpaper to give it some tooth, so the Smooth-It has something to stick to. Do not seal the foam prior to adding Smooth-It.
Landscape

Mix and blend versatile and compatible products to realistically recreate natural color variances, contrasts and highlights. Easy-to-use products give modelers the results they expect.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Does your coal have any metallic or magnetic substances in it?
  
  No, our coal does not contain metal or magnetic substances of any kind.
- Generally, what is the difference between Ballast and Talus?
  
  Ballast is placed along the railroad track to model actual ballast that holds track in place.
  
  Talus is used to model rock debris under rock outcroppings, rocky hillsides or embankments.
- I recently purchased your turf and foliage materials. They were not exactly the same color as the same product I've used in the past. Why?
  
  Our landscaping system is based on nature's principle of contrasts and highlights. Although many of our colors are close, slight variations occur from batch to batch. These variations help create more realistic scenery and blend easily with other existing colors.
- How do I give a matte-white snow base a crystalized, icy look?
  
  Mix a tiny amount of fine, iridescent glitter with Snow Flake Snow™ until the desired look is achieved, keeping in mind that a little goes a long way. Spray an already modeled snow base with Scenic Cement™ and apply the mixture while glue is wet.
  
  You can also mix glitter with Water Effects™ before modeling icicles.
- I bought your Tree Armatures and I would like to know what kind of foliage I should buy for building trees that are durable enough for wargaming.
  
  We recommend using Clump Foliage as tree foliage. Break into desired sized pieces and attach to tree armatures with Hob-e-Tac as instructed. Spray foliage with Scenic Cement to secure in place.
- I would like to duplicate the look of the Desert Sand Ready-Grass Sheet. Is this color turf available?
  
  Desert Sand ReadyGrass Vinyl Mats are made with a special, very fine blend of Talus.
  
  The closest match is Fine Grade Talus in Buff.
  
  To achieve the same fine consistency, place Talus in a plastic bag and seal. On a safe surface, tap Talus with a hammer until desired consistency is achieved.
- How can I make a frozen pond?
  
  Prepare your water areas as usual and pour Realistic Water. While it is still wet, lightly sprinkle Soft Flake Snow on top. This will create a glazed, frosted look to simulate a frozen, icy surface.
  
  Click here to view a demonstraton of modeling frozen water.
- How do I pour a pond with your Realistic Water on your Ready Grass Mat?
  
  On the ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat, mark the pond area with a dull pencil. Brush water inside the marked area, then scrape the turf off gently with a craft stick or handle of a paintbrush. Run a continuous bead of Scenic Glue™ around the perimeter of water area and let dry completely.
  If desired, paint inside water area with Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment. When everything in the water area is completely dry, pour Realistic Water™ according to the label instructions.
  
  We do offer a Ready Grass Water Kit designed for this purpose.
  
  Click here to view a video about the Ready Grass Water Kit, detailing how to make a body of water on Ready Grass.
- I am going to place Ballast on my ReadyGrass Mat. Do I scrape the turf off the mat first, or just add the Ballast on top of the turf?
  
  If you are just adding landscape materials, such as Ballast, there is no need to scrape the turf off prior to application.
  
  If you are laying track and adding Ballast, we recommend scraping the turf off before adhering the track.
- What is the best way to adhere clump foliage to nearly vertical surfaces? I have tried many methods but the clumps keep falling off after a few weeks.
  
  This depends on what type of surface you want to adhere the foliage to. We have created three-dimensional trees by gluing foliage to foam board backgrounds. The Clump-Foliage™ must be broken into manageable size pieces (approximately the size of our Bushes). We use Foam Tack Glue™ to adhere the foliage, piece by piece. Dry flat and let the glue dry thoroughly.
- How many 2-4” Tree Armatures can be foliated with one bag of Foliage Clusters?
  
  This is difficult to calculate with Foliage Clusters, as the size of foliage is created by the customer. We recommend breaking foliage into pieces approximately 1/8"-5/16" for 2"-4" Tree Armatures. With these size pieces, one bag of Foliage Clusters will foliage approximately 40 trees. Actual coverage depends on how thick the foliage is applied.
- How do I make realistic snow drifts?
  
  There are two techniques you can use.
  
  1. Mix equal parts of white acrylic paint with Soft Flake Snow™
  
  2. Spread Flex Paste™ with a craft stick, then sprinkle with Soft Flake snow while wet.
  
  Click here to view a demonstraton of modeling snow drifts.
- Will hills made with the ReadyGrass Mat be strong enough to support lead miniature wargaming figures? Lots of them, and for long periods of time?
  
  For this application, we suggest using Shaper Sheet and Shaper Sheet Plaster. Shaper Sheet is a revolutionary material that can be shaped and reshaped to form terrain with any level of detail. When covered in Shaper Sheet Plaster, it becomes a very durable surface that will support heavy game play.
  
  Cover Shaper Sheet Plaster in landscape materials to model a realistic gaming terrain.
- What is the best way to apply Fruit and Flowers products?
  
  The best way to adhere Fruit is to spray Scenic Cement™ onto foliage, then let it set until tacky (nearly dry). Sprinkle on Fruit and overspray with a VERY fine mist of Scenic Cement. Do not get the fruit too wet or the color may run.
  
  To adhere Flowers, spray Scenic Cement on landscape, sprinkle Flowers on wet adhesive and spray again to seal in place.
  
  Click here to see how to apply fruits and flowers.
- I have a portable layout that I will be taking to and from hobby shows. I have used the ReadyGrass mat. What can I use to waterproof it in case it gets rained on from time to time?
  
  The ReadyGrass Mat was not designed to get wet. However, if the mat is prepped properly, it should be okay after a short sprint in a light rain. Spray the ReadyGrass Mat with a few light layers of Scenic Cement (S191), but do not saturate. Let each layer dry completely before applying the next. NOTE: This will make the ReadyGrass Mat a bit darker.
- Do you have any tips for modeling flowers?
  
  We have a variety of products that can be used to model flowers. As an idea, use Flowering Foliage, which is available in Yellow and Purple to model flowering fields, bushes, trees, etc. Or, sprinkle Flowers (includes Red, Yellow, White and Orange) or Pollen (Yellow, Orange, Red, Purple, Pink) on Foliage, Poly Fiber, Field Grass or any of our turf products.
  
  Click here to see a video on how to model flowers.
- Can foliage, turf and tree products be used outdoors?
  
  Woodland Scenics products are not designed to be exposed to the outdoor elements.
- Is your "ballast" real stone?
  
  No, our Ballast is not real stone.
- Do your soil, grass, and tree products work for 1/35 modeling scale?
  
  Our turf products work for any scale. Our trees are available in a variety of sizes, the tallest measuring 9 inches.
- What can I use to model sawdust in O scale?
  
  The best way to model sawdust is to use real sawdust. To create sawdust, sand a piece of soft wood, such as pine, with 80-grit sandpaper (coarse grade). Attach the sawdust with Scenic Cement. You can control the scale by using more or less coarse grade of sandpaper.
- I wish to change the color and shade of some packets of ballast as I can not match any of your products to the color that I require. Could you please recommend the types of inks, dyes, paints or anything I could use to effect the changes that I need.
  
  We recommend using our Earth Colors Liquid Pigments (C1216-C1223, C1228, C1229) to dye Ballast.
  
  In a disposable plastic cup, add Ballast to desired color of pigment and mix thoroughly with a craft stick or paintbrush. If a lighter color is desired, dilute pigment with water. Let set until preferred color is achieved. Spread out Ballast on newspaper or paper towels and let dry.
- I am looking for hedgerows in 1/35 scale for a future diorama.
  
  We do not have anything specific to 1/35 scale. Below are Hedgerows and their dimensions.
  Hedgerow 1” w x 2-3/8” t x 7-3/4” l (2.54 cm x 6.03 cm x 19.6 cm)
  Hedgerow 1” w x 4” t x 8-1/4” l (2.54 cm x 10.1 cm x 20.9 cm)
  Hedgerow Scene Tree Kits Contains 18 trees and 6 bushes, 24”-30” (60.9 cm x 76.2 cm)
  
  You could also model your own hedgerow scene with landscape materials, such as Realistic Tree Kits, Fine-Leaf Foliage, Clump-Foliage or Forest Canopy.
- How much area will Soft Flake Snow cover?
  
  1 lb covers 5.8 ft² (0.538 meters²) and is 0.065 in (1.65 mm) thick.
- What is the best way to model sand?
  
  Place fine grade Talus in a plastic bag and seal it. On a safe surface, tap Talus with a hammer until desired consistency is achieved. It can also be colored with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment to achieve the desired color of sand.
- What is the thickness of the ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat?
  
  The thickness of the vinyl mat alone is 7.5 mil.
  
  The vinyl mat and the turf together are approximately 1/32" (0.03") or 0.8 mm thick.
- I am building the Grand Valley Layout Kit and the instructions say to use "wet water" with Ballast. On YouTube I found a Woodland video on how to adhere Ballast and it said not to use "wet water" or it will interfere with the adhesion. Which is correct?
  
  Both are correct. The Scenic Cement that is included with the Grand Valley Layout Kit is a concentrated formula and does not contain the wetting agent that regular Scenic Cement does. This is why the Grand Valley (and other Layout Kits) instructions state to mist Ballast with "wet water" before applying the Scenic Cement.
- What is the average size in N scale for the Broken and Cut Stumps?
  
  Cut Stumps and Broken Stumps in N scale (1:160 inches) are approximately 3 scale feet wide (7/32" / 5.5 mm base width) and 2-1/2 scale feet tall (3/16" / 4.7 mm).
- How do I model a dirt road?
  
  There are many different ways to model a dirt road. Here are a couple of ideas.
  
  Paint your road with Earth Colors Liquid Pigments - Earth Undercoat . When dry, spray with Scenic Cement and sprinkle on Earth Fine Turf. This will add the texture of dirt. When desired amount of Turf is applied, spray with a final light coat of Scenic Cement to seal in place.
  
  Use Gravel - Buff Fine. The included Accent Powder will add just the right touch of realistic coloring.
  
  Click here to view a video on modeling gravel/dirt roads.
- I have started my layout. Should I ballast my track first?
  
  If there are tunnels on the layout, ballast track approximately 6” into the tunnels on both ends before enclosing them.
  
  Ballast the rest of the track after coloring rock castings with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment and applying Earth Colors Liquid Pigment-Earth Undercoat to the terrain.
  
  Add landscape materials to the layout after ballasting is completed.
  
  Click here to view a demonstration of applying Ballast to track.
- How do I attach a ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat to a base such as foam, plywood or other porous surface?
  
  Use Woodland Scenics Mat Adhesive to attach ReadyGrass Vinyl Mats to flat surfaces. The 7 fluid ounce bottle covers approx. 5000 square inches.
  
  If attaching ReadyGrass to a porous surface, sand surface with 100-grit sandpaper, then prime with a flat finish acrylic paint to seal prior to applying Adhesive. If a semi-gloss or gloss acrylic paint is used, it must be lightly sanded with fine-grade sandpaper before attaching the ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat. Let paint dry completely.
  
  For a repositioning bond, apply Adhesive to surface only. This will allow the Grass Mat to be peeled up and reapplied to another surface. It is not a permanent bond.
  
  If wanting a permanent bond, apply Adhesive to surface and back of ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat.
  
  How to Apply - Brush or roll a generous, even layer of Mat Adhesive. Let dry until clear and tacky (max. working time, 2 hours). Do not force dry with heat. Align mat and smooth from center to edges with a rolling device. A rolling pin works well.
- How can I model the different colors of yellow in fall foliage?
  
  We have a variety of yellow foliage and turf for making trees and adding highlights to create unique colors.
  
  Foliage for Making Trees
  -Early Fall Foliage includes yellow and a yellow mix.
  -Yellow Flowering Foliage is yellow turf on a green fiber backing to model the transition from summer to fall.
  -Fall Mix Clump-Foliage includes yellow and three other fall colors that can be mixed with the yellow to create unique shades.
  
  Highlighting Turf
  -Yellow Grass Coarse Turf
  
  -Fall Yellow Coarse Turf
  -Yellow Grass Fine Turf
  
  Use the products individually and in combination to create a wide variety of unique yellow trees.
- How can I model a tumbleweed?
  
  There are a variety of products you can use to model tumbleweeds.
  
  Fine-Leaf Foliage - Dead Foliage or Light Green and Forest Canopy-Light Green will model very realistic tumbleweeds.
  
  Poly Fiber can also be used. Tear off a small piece of Poly Fiber and stretch until very thin and lacy. Roll a piece of stretched fiber between your palms to give it shape.
- Your catalog and Web site pictures make it look as if sunlight is shining on the scenes. How can I do this same thing at home?
  
  We mainly use halogen lighting when we take product photos in our studio. Generally, the model is set-up and one halogen light represents the angle of the sun. One or more diffused lights are used to fill in the rest of the model. A three-point lighting technique, often used in filming video, works well to highlight foliage in the background.
- What type of brush or roller should I use to apply my Mat Adhesive to ReadyGrass Mat?
  
  To apply Mat Adhesive, a foam brush or roller will work well.
- I used Scenic Cement to apply my Ballast, and now I need to disassemble my layout and move it. How do I release the Ballast from the track?
  
  To remove Ballast from the track, soften the Scenic Cement™ with warm, soapy water. If the glue is hard to remove, use denatured alcohol.
- I am having a problem with my foliage staying on trees. I used Clump-Foliage broken up into small pieces, put on Hob-E-Tac and waited for about 10 minutes. What could it be?
  
  The drying time of Hob-e-Tac® varies due to environmental conditions and thickness of application. Typically, dry time is between 20-45 minutes. It is possible the 10 minutes of dry time was not sufficient. Hob-e-Tac must dry clear before foliage is applied or it will not stick. If it is still white, it is not dry.
  
  Recommendation for making trees. Apply Hob-e-Tac to all branches. Avoid trunk area where foliage does not grow naturally. Wait for adhesive to become clear and tacky. Break Clump-Foliage into manageable size pieces and pinch firmly onto branches.
  
  Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.
- How do you get the clump foliage trees so full? I bought your kit and I cannot get them to look like that. Do you apply another coat of the hob-e-tac to the first application of foliage then add more foliage?
  
  Here is our method for modeling trees with Clump-Foliage, which provides a very thick, realistic looking tree.
  1. Bend and twist Tree Armatures into realistic, three-dimensional shapes. A popular technique is to have the branches resemble deer antlers. This shape helps hold more foliage on Armatures.
  2. Apply Hob-e-Tac (S195) liberally to all sides of branches, avoiding trunk area where foliage does not grow naturally. Wait for adhesive to become clear and tacky (very important). Dry time varies due to environmental conditions, 20-45+ minutes.
  3. Break Clump-Foliage into manageable size pieces that are proprotional to the size of the Tree Armatures you are using. Dip the Tree Armature deep into the bag of Clump-Foliage, remove carefully and shake gently to remove excess. Dip into bag of foliage again, if desired. Then, pinch Clump-Foliage firmly on branches to secure.
  4. Overspray Clump-Foliage with Scenic Cement (S192) to help seal in place.
  
  Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.
Water

Woodland Scenics water products are designed to work together to model any water scene such as; waterfalls, rivers, lakes and more. Watch the How-To videos to learn more about modeling water.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Can I cut just a portion of my realistic water out to put a boat into?
  
  Yes, a portion of dried Realistic Water can be cut out, but it should be done with care.
  
  Measure the area to be cut out, but make the cutout a bit smaller than the size measured. Using a hobby knife, make a clean cut into the Water. It is easier to cut out additional Realistic Water, than repair an area too large for the boat. Pry out the dried Realistic Water, slowly and carefully.
- My Realistic Water surface has indentations in it from an item that I placed on it. I want to be able to pick up the item and move it. Is this not going to be possible?
  
  The Realistic Water is meant to stay flexible and pliable to discourage cracking. Therefore anything that is placed on the Realistic Water surface will leave a mark. Although, the Realistic Water is self-healing and the indentations may lift, the water surface will never be completely hard enough to place items on it without sticking. If indentations do not lift, pool denatured alcohol in the indentation and let it dry naturally. It may take a few applications for the indentation to self-level.
- Can E-Z Water be poured over cured Realistic Water?
  
  No. E-Z Water™ is poured hot, which would result in bubbling and cracking of the Realistic Water™. Realistic Water can be poured over E-Z Water, but it must be completely cured.
- Can I paint over cured Realistic Water or Deep Pour Water and then pour another layer of Realistic Water or Deep Pour Water over it?
  
  You can apply Water Undercoat, or 100% acrylic paint, on fully cured Realistic Water or Deep Pour Water and then pour another layer over it.
- What is the best product to use for water if the depth needs to be deeper than 1/8"?
  
  We recommend using Deep Pour Water. Deep Pour Water can be poured up to ½ in (12.7 mm) deep in a single pour. If you want more depth, Deep Pour Water can also be layered without leaving transition lines after the previous pour has set up for 4 hours. You can also pour Realistic Water in layers in increments of 1/8 in (3.17 mm) after the previous layer is fully cured. E-Z Water™ is also good for deeper water areas. We recommend E-Z Water for small but deep areas, since it should be applied in one pour to avoid transition lines.
- I've waited 24 hours for the Realistic Water to dry, but it still not clear.
  
  Depending on your workspace’s humidity level and the depth of your Realistic Water®, it may take longer than 24 hours to completely dry. Never force the curing process by using heat. You can move the process along by placing the layout in an air-conditioned area with less humidity or using a fan in the room to circulate air.
- What is the best way to add color to my E-Z Water?
  
  Use dry pigments or dyes only. Add dye to pre-melted pellets or mix into melted pellets a small amount at a time. When adding dye to melted E-Z Water™, mix in dye very slowly to avoid bubbles.
- Should the Water Effects cure to be completely clear in 24 hours?
  
  The 24-hour dry time of Water Effects is a guideline only. Actual dry time depends on a number of factors. Very thick applications could take a couple of weeks to clear completely. Environmental conditions like heat and humidity could also extend dry time. To speed up dry time, place a fan in the room to circulate the air.
- How can I make ice blocks?
  
  This method makes very realistic ice blocks. Adjust size accordingly.
  
  1. Apply a square layer of Water Effects onto a non-stick surface, such as freezer paper or a non-stick pan. Let dry until clear.
  2. Add additional layers as needed, letting each layer cure fully.
  3. If necessary, trim with hobby knife after blocks are cured and clear.
- What is recommended to use as a base sealer prior to pouring the Realistic Water?
  
  We recommend sealing a water feature base with Plaster Cloth. Apply as instructed on the label, ensuring all holes in the Cloth are filled in before pouring Realistic Water.
  
  Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
- How can I get my Realistic Water a blue color?
  
  Modeling a blue-colored water feature with Realistic Water can be done in a variety of ways.
  
  You can use our one of our blue Water Tints (Navy Blue or Turquoise). Water Tints are specially formulated to tint Deep Pour Water, Realistic Water and Surface Water.
  
  Use Water Undercoat Terrain Paint. It is slate blue paint designed for coloring a water base blue and models a blue water effect.
  
  Use 100% acrylic paint in a blue shade.
  
  Use Scene-A-Rama Blue Realistic Water. This pre-tinted Realistic Water is ready to use. Applying additional layers enhances the blue effect.
  
  You can also tint Realistic Water by mixing in a tiny amount of Water Undercoat, 100% acrylic paint, liquid fabric dye or food coloring. This technique will give your water an opaque look. Pour Realistic Water into a disposable cup and mix in desired amount of color very slowly to avoid bubbles. If bubbles occur, cover and let set until they disperse (approx. 2 hours). Do a small test area and let cure for a minimum of 24 hours to verify desired color.
  
  Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.
  
  Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
- Can I use the realistic water on blue/pink extruded foam that has had nothing more done to it than painting? Will it attack the foam?
  
  Realistic Water will not "attack" the foam, but if it is not prepared and sealed properly, it may release gases into the Realistic Water, causing bubbling and other issues. It is very important to cover an extruded foam base with a few layers of Plaster Cloth, being careful to fill all the holes. Then, paint the base with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment. If using another type of paint verify with the manufacturer that it is 100% acrylic. Let everything in your water area dry completely before pouring Realistic Water.
- Can Realistic Water, Deep Pour Water, or E-Z Water be used outdoors?
  
  None of our water products are suitable for outdoor use.
- How do I tint Water Effects™?
  
  You can use our Water Tint which is specially formulated to tint Deep Pour Water, Realistic Water and Surface Water. Or you can mix a small amount of Earth Colors® Liquid Pigment or water-soluble paint into Water Effects™ before applying.
- I have applied some waves using the Water Effects on top of my Realistic Water. The Water Effects is still white or has turned white, will it become clear?
  
  Yes, the Water Effects turning white after use is normal. It will become clear over time depending on how thick the Water Effects was applied. It also helps to have air circulating in room your water feature is in.
- How can I make a frozen pond?
  
  Prepare your water areas as usual and pour Realistic Water. While it is still wet, lightly sprinkle Soft Flake Snow on top. This will create a glazed, frosted look to simulate a frozen, icy surface.
  
  Click here to view a demonstraton of modeling frozen water.
- How do I pour a pond with your Realistic Water on your Ready Grass Mat?
  
  On the ReadyGrass Vinyl Mat, mark the pond area with a dull pencil. Brush water inside the marked area, then scrape the turf off gently with a craft stick or handle of a paintbrush. Run a continuous bead of Scenic Glue™ around the perimeter of water area and let dry completely.
  If desired, paint inside water area with Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment. When everything in the water area is completely dry, pour Realistic Water™ according to the label instructions.
  
  We do offer a Ready Grass Water Kit designed for this purpose.
  
  Click here to view a video about the Ready Grass Water Kit, detailing how to make a body of water on Ready Grass.
- How do I make a waterfall?
  
  You can make any size waterfall you want with Water Effects, Water Waves or Water Ripples.
  
  To view a step-by-step video for making a waterfall with Water Effects, visit the following link: http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/MakeWaterfall
- Can I pour my Realistic Water in 1/8" layers to a total of 3/4" deep?
  
  Yes, but you must wait until the previous layer is fully cured before pouring the next layer. Cure times will start taking longer the more layers you add. 3/4 in will take weeks to achieve with Realistic Water. Therefore, we recommend using Deep Pour Water instead because it would be a much quicker process to achieve the 3/4 in depth.
- How do I apply the Water Effects?
  
  Water Effects is moldable, holds its shape and dries clear. To model moving water, apply on top of dried Realistic Water™ or E-Z Water with a paintbrush or craft stick.
  To model a waterfall, squeeze onto freezer paper or non-stick pan in desired shape and length (add 1/2” to length for attaching to layout). Let dry until clear, then peel off surface carefully and attach using Water Effects as an adhesive. Dry time varies due to heat and humidity.
  
  Click here to view a video on modeling waterfalls with Water Effects.
- I am using E-Z Water in a very large area. How do I minimize seeing transition lines where I start and stop pours?
  
  E-Z Water™ must be applied in one pour. If applying E-Z Water in multiple pours, transition lines are unavoidable.
- How is the best way to pour Realistic Water into a sloping river? Will it not flow to the deep end, being too deep at one end and almost nothing at the shallow end?
  
  There are a couple of options for applying Realistic Water down a sloping river.
  
  1. Brush on Realistic Water with a foam brush. Brush very slowly to avoid creating bubbles. You just want to create the illusion of water, so depth is not important. When completely dry, dab on Water Effects to model flowing water.
  
  2. Depending on the size of the layout, elevate the low end of the river so it sets level. Apply Realistic Water in the manner listed on the label instructions.
- What type of adhesive / glue works best to adhere items under my Realistic Water?
  
  You can use Realistic Water itself or Scenic Glue to adhere items in your water area. However, it is very important to apply the adhesive in a very thin layer and allow everything to dry completely before pouring Realistic Water. Residual moisture in the adhesive could be absorbed by the Realistic Water and cause clouding.
- How do I tint Realistic Water?
  
  You can use our Water Tint which is specially formulated to tint Deep Pour Water, Realistic Water and Surface Water. Or you can use Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigment to tint Realistic Water™. Pour Realistic Water into a disposable cup and mix in coloring agent very slowly to avoid bubbles. If bubbles occur, cover and let set until they disperse (approximately 2 hours). It is advisable to do a small test area to verify desired color.
  
  Click here to view a video on using Water Tints.
  
  Also click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
- How do I clean the surface of my water feature?
  
  Only use Dust Dabber or canned air.
  
  Click here to view a short video about the Dust Dabber.
- Do your soil, grass, and tree products work for 1/35 modeling scale?
  
  Our turf products work for any scale. Our trees are available in a variety of sizes, the tallest measuring 9 inches.
- Will Water Effects remain tacky or will it dry completely to a hard product? I am wanting to place models on top of it without it leaving marks on it or even worse, sticking to it.
  
  Water Effects will remain pliable. Anything set on top of it will stick to it and leave indentations.
- I put sand down underneath my Realistic Water with a PVA glue. Now after a month I have excessive cloudiness. What could the problem be?
  
  Realistic Water and PVA glue are not compatible. Using the two together could cause the Realistic Water to act adversely, causing cracking and/or fogging.
  
  We recommend using Scenic Glue (S190) to adhere items in a water area. It is also important to let everything dry completely before pouring Realistic Water.
- I plan to use your Realistic Water and Water Effects products to create a creek. I do not see anywhere how to clean up a brush after applying these products.
  
  Both products are water-soluble. Clean brushes immediately with warm, soapy water.
  
  General cleaning information is listed on the label in the Modeling and Care Information.
- Can Realistic Water and Deep Pour Water be poured on top of each other?
  
  Yes, you can use both Realistic Water and Deep Pour Water in the same water feature once the first water product has cured completely.
- How do I color my water area and what products should I use?
  
  You can use our Water Undercoat, Water Undercoat Terrain Paint, or 100% acrylic paint to color the water area. Or you can use Earth Colors™ Liquid Pigments. If using Earth Colors Liquid Pigments, seal area with Scenic Cement™ afterwards and allow it to dry.
  
  Another way to model a realistic water area is to use dark and light shades of color. The darker the shade, the deeper the water will appear.
  
  Paint entire terrain, including water area, with Earth Colors Liquid Pigment or Earth Undercoat. In the center of the water area, use Slate Gray Liquid Pigment or Black Liquid Pigment to model deep water. For the shoreline, dilute the darker pigment with 16-parts water or choose a lighter shade, such as Stone Gray Liquid Pigment. Be sure to blend the edges where the paint shades meet to avoid harsh transition lines and model realistic changes in depth.
  
  If you are using Realistic Water and are not using Earth Colors Liquid Pigments, check with the manufacturer to make sure the paint you are using is 100% acrylic. Most craft paints, including premium brands, contain vinyl fillers. Vinyl in paint could have an adverse reaction with Realistic Water.
  
  Click here to view a video on preparing and painting water areas.
- Can Water Effects be painted with acrylic paint once it dries?
  
  Yes, it can be painted after it is dry with 100% acrylic paint.
- How do you clean Surface Waters out of a brush or any tools used to apply them?
  
  You can clean tools and brushes with warm soapy water.
- Can I pour Deep Pour Water over Water Effects?
  
  Yes, as long as the Water Effects is fully cured.
- Can Water Waves be applied over Water Effects?
  
  Yes. Allow Water Effects to cure completely before applying Water Waves.
- How do I fix my Realistic Water if it was smudged or damaged before it was fully cured?
  
  Spray it with household rubbing alcohol (90%, if possible) or denatured alcohol. Let the alcohol dry (evaporate). Then, pour a small, thin pour of Realistic Water over the first.
- Your catalog and Web site pictures make it look as if sunlight is shining on the scenes. How can I do this same thing at home?
  
  We mainly use halogen lighting when we take product photos in our studio. Generally, the model is set-up and one halogen light represents the angle of the sun. One or more diffused lights are used to fill in the rest of the model. A three-point lighting technique, often used in filming video, works well to highlight foliage in the background.
- Can Realistic Water be used on Mold-A-Scene?
  
  Yes, Realistic Water can be used over Mold-A-Scene, but you should seal the area according to the Realistic Water instructions.
Tools & Adhesives

Specially formulated to work with Terrain and Landscape products, these tools and adhesives are designed to simplify your modeling efforts. They are fully tested for results, safety, quality and durability.
Frequently Asked Questions
- I bought your Tree Armatures and I would like to know what kind of foliage I should buy for building trees that are durable enough for wargaming.
  
  We recommend using Clump Foliage as tree foliage. Break into desired sized pieces and attach to tree armatures with Hob-e-Tac as instructed. Spray foliage with Scenic Cement to secure in place.
- What type of adhesive / glue works best to adhere items under my Realistic Water?
  
  You can use Realistic Water itself or Scenic Glue to adhere items in your water area. However, it is very important to apply the adhesive in a very thin layer and allow everything to dry completely before pouring Realistic Water. Residual moisture in the adhesive could be absorbed by the Realistic Water and cause clouding.
- I am using Latex Rubber and it won't dry. What am I doing wrong?
  
  You may be applying it too thick. Latex Rubber should be applied in thin layers, letting each layer dry completely for approximately 30 minutes (dry time varies due to environmental conditions). When applied, Latex Rubber is opaque and off-white in color. It is pale yellow and slightly translucent when dry.
- I used Scenic Cement to apply my Ballast, and now I need to disassemble my layout and move it. How do I release the Ballast from the track?
  
  To remove Ballast from the track, soften the Scenic Cement™ with warm, soapy water. If the glue is hard to remove, use denatured alcohol.
- What is the dilution rate of Scenic Cement?
  
  Scenic Cement is ready to use. Diluting is not required.
- I am having a problem with my foliage staying on trees. I used Clump-Foliage broken up into small pieces, put on Hob-E-Tac and waited for about 10 minutes. What could it be?
  
  The drying time of Hob-e-Tac® varies due to environmental conditions and thickness of application. Typically, dry time is between 20-45 minutes. It is possible the 10 minutes of dry time was not sufficient. Hob-e-Tac must dry clear before foliage is applied or it will not stick. If it is still white, it is not dry.
  
  Recommendation for making trees. Apply Hob-e-Tac to all branches. Avoid trunk area where foliage does not grow naturally. Wait for adhesive to become clear and tacky. Break Clump-Foliage into manageable size pieces and pinch firmly onto branches.
  
  Click here to view a short video about making a tree with Hob-E-Tac.

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Terrain & Landscape

Terrain

Frequently Asked Questions

Landscape

Frequently Asked Questions

Water

Frequently Asked Questions

Tools & Adhesives

Frequently Asked Questions